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Val Maira Valley, Piedmonte, Italy – Maxi-METHS and AGM

35th Annual Reunion - Tuesday 6th to Saturday 10th September 2022

Venue: Locanda Mistral, Borgata Ponte Máira, 12021 Acceglio (CN), Italy; see Locanda Mistral.

Participants: Rupert (leader) and Sally Roschnik, Kay Black, Natan Cointet, Mick and Judy Ireson, Nigel and Jenny Horrocks, Lloyd and Janet Woods (10)

Tuesday 6th September, 2022

On Tuesday afternoon we all met up at the Locanda Mistral and had THE most delicious supper and lots of chat.

(Sally)

Wednesday 7th September, 2022

Hillside opposite Locanda Mistral

Main group (Grande Brisset (1760m) - distance 11,6 km, total uphill and downhill 615 m, ca. 5 hrs walking):

Beautifully situated by the river at 1400m with a backdrop of high peaks, Locanda Mistral offers walks in many directions. On our first day we all (Rupert, Sally, Natan, Lloyd, Janet, Jenny, Nigel, Kay, Mick & Judy) set off across the river on a path that climbed quite steeply up to a plateau opposite. Sally and Jenny then walked down to Acceglio via St Maurizio church while the rest of the group went on up to Grande Brisset (1760m). The botanists among us found a stunning variety of wild herbs and fungi and photographed many unfamiliar plants for identification. We also saw what we thought were hunting dogs and while looking for a path down to Colombata, we came across a group of men who turned out to be hunters wearing their traditional hunting hats – fortunately they were not hunting as the season starts in October – as they put it ‘the lead isn’t flowing yet’. Undeterred by their rather exaggerated warning that the path was steep and dangerous, we set off down and made our way via Colombata and Bargia to Acceglio where we all met up in a café by the village sports field. After refreshments including a plate of local cheese some of us went into Acceglio to buy postcards and provisions and all followed a path by the river back up to our starting point.

(Judy)

Slower team:

On Wednesday, we all set off up the hill opposite. There were still lots of different flowers and there was much discussion identifying them. Once on top of the ridge, we separated into two groups and Jenny and I formed the "feeblies". Jenny had a twisted ankle and I am always in the slower group so I was VERY pleased to have Jenny with me. The "speedies" went off up the mountain while we cut across the fields to the Chiesa San Maurizio and then gradually down under the trees and past the shrines to Acceglio where we found an outside bar (Bar Midia). They were delighted to welcome us for cheese and cappuccinos. And all the hot sweaty "speedies" joined us later, much to the joy of the bar owners. Jenny, Nigel and I then set off up along the river back to the Mistral. They said it was 2 km but it seemed much more. All the paths in the Val Maira are most beautiful and so well kept.

(Sally)

Thursday 8th September, 2022

Main group:

(Colle delle Munie (2531 m) on French border and Colle Aguya (2561 m). Distance 15,1 km, total uphill and downhill 1085 m, ca. 5½ hrs walking. Highest point, a mound between the first two cols, ca. 2570 m, could be considered as a "peak" (our only one!)

We started the climb by a small lake at 1628 m, just below the source of the Maira river; the path led us up into the forest. A steep climb, we tactfully conserved our energy with a gentle pace and a few rests. The forests gradually thinned and we reached our first ridge, here we could really feel the drama of the Val Maira, steep slopes on all sides, the wind was cold and strong, jumpers donned. We stopped briefly to read a billboard; it was all in Italian.

The trail traversed the steep slope ahead, across rock fall and sparse wood, then our second hard climb; we zigzagged for what felt like an hour. We stopped just below the top and had our first proper stop, some bites to eat and all members able to catch up and also rest. A larger group wearing brighter colours overtook us.

We set off again, the landscape ahead softened, as did the gradient. To the south we could see a hut with small mountain lake in the distance (Lago d'Apsoi). We marched on towards our target; the Colle delle Munie. A delightful section of rolling mountain pastures complete with a herd of beautiful white cows all sitting and watching the humans walk by.

Ahead was our final climb, a small steep section before we reached the Colle delle Munie, 2531 m. All members reached the top without any issues, a great effort! We admired the old border stone and looked out towards France, then we took shelter from the wind and consumed the remnants of our food.

Now the descent, harder than the climb for some due to stiff knees and loose scree, not easy! The first section bypassed the summit of M. Soubeyron, 2701 m; here we encountered a family of marmots that did not seem too concerned by our party. Fascinated, we took photos and enjoyed observing what is normally a very shy animal, perhaps the marmots were just as fascinated by us.

Onwards and downwards, we reached Italian defensive positions from WW2, rusted, contorted barbed wire, a bunker and barracks, harsh scars on the landscape reminding all the realities of war, never should we forget.

It was a long descent, lots of tricky scree and more marmots. Our path crossed zigzags of an old road which eventually led us back to the forest where we started.

It was a tough day but we all did exceptionally well, the food (and beer) was well deserved and very much enjoyed afterwards. I will not forget this day, a truly wonderful time!

(Natan)

Slower team:

On Thursday we all went up by car to a small lake above Saretto. From there Jenny and I walked up the hill above the river and lake to Chiappera on the lookout for coffee but the two possibilities there were closed so we started down to Saretto, another gorgeous village, with an even more gorgeous young man who, having started and abandoned Architecture at University, had come back to where he was born and was rebuilding his family home and more. He now has rooms to let. He also had a delicious and original sort of cold fish cake with potatoes, fish, pine nuts, pesto and olive oil. Just in case you want to try it out! It was, of course, SO GOOD. And so, on down the valley to our Locanda.

(Sally)

Friday 9th September 2022

Main group:

Colle della Scaletta (2640 m) - Distance 9,0 km, total uphill and downhill 900 m, ca. 3¾ hrs walking

All 10 of us drove down to Acceglio in three cars, then some 6 km up the wooded valley of the Unerzio stream (misleadingly called a "Torrente" in Italian) to a road junction at 1813 m above sea level where the already badly tarred road ended and only gravel roads continued. From here Kay, Jenny and Sally walked back down the valley on good paths past the village of Chialvetta almost to Acceglio (see separate description). Mick was worried about possible steep descents, so he and Judy went up some 2½ km on the right hand road past a farm, Grange Rosano, at about 2050 m, and on to Col Ciarbonel at 2206m before returning and picking up the three ladies at the bottom of the valley at Frere near Acceglio.

The remaining five, Janet and Lloyd, Natan, Nigel and Rupert took the left hand road and soon branched off onto a good path (numbered S10). This led us up through groves of larches and emerged onto pleasant pastures. There were many mushrooms under the trees, probably the result of a warm summer and recent rains, but we did not pick any, not being able to identify any of the 3-4 different species we saw. Further up, the path became quite stony, the sky became cloudy and it started to be very windy. Our first real objective was the Passo dell'Escalon, 2415 m. This was not really a pass but a narrow passage through a gully in a small cliff, which required some care and a little bit of scrambling. At the top, the path did not go down but continued steadily uphill for nearly an hour with hardly any flat areas for resting. There was some grass but mainly stones and boulders. By the time we reached the Passo della Scaletta, 2640 m, almost 3 hours after leaving the cars, the wind had become very strong and cold. With no gloves and numb hands, we looked with dismay at the next section, another 200 m uphill on a steep slope that would have taken us to a real summit, Monte Scaletta, 2840 m, in another 40 minutes or so. And we watched 3-4 much younger and much more suitably dressed hikers or trail runners fighting their way up through the wind. Rupert decided to call it a day – nobody objected!

A little lower down we found the remains of a walled enclosure that offered some protection from the wind, tried to make ourselves comfortable and consumed our picnics. Natan discovered some edelweiss all around the enclosure (we had not seen them earlier), to our great delight. Cameras and smartphones were immediately put to good use! The rest of the descent was quite rapid and uneventful and we were soon back at the cars. Total time for the trip: 4 hours 20 minutes, including stops.

In the evening we were entertained by two musicians using a variety of instruments: the girl mainly on a hurdy gurdy but also a local bagpipe, the man mainly on an accordion but also a mouth organ and a guitar. He also sang some local Occitan songs. They started late afternoon on the lawn below the Locanda (where we were served aperitifs) and later continued inside in the dining room all through our dinner.

(Rupert)

Slower team:

On Friday, Kay joined us and the whole group went up by car some 3 km above Chialvetta and back down through this and other villages to Frere. We admired the reconstruction and work on old houses. A glorious path down along the river past beautiful white cows and lots of donkeys. We were late for our meet up with Mick and Judy and so, thanks to the magic invention of the mobile phone, they came to pick us up at Frere which saved us walking all the way up back home. The bar in Acceglio was happy to see us again and we had cheese, cappuccinos and fancy pistachio roll-ups again!!!!

In this bar they sold hand, body and face creams made locally from goat’s milk. Very nice too. At Saretto someone else sold similar products made from cow’s milk and at our Locanda, we had an evening’s talk by a young man who made strong alcohol from several of the plants that grow on the hillside. On our last night, we had the treat of a young couple playing local music (Occitan) on a great variety of instruments and we could buy their CDs. So, all in all, it was a splendid opportunity to buy local products.

All the walks in the Val Maira were just glorious, often in the forest, along streams, with a great variety of flowers. This may give the impression that we did not walk that much, but we were very happy with what we did and were nicely tired by the end of each day. What more do you want?

The Locanda Mistral is a perfect place from which to discover this valley. There are other places to stay too, of course.

Many thanks to Rupert for organising this meet and for finding appropriate paths. We all very much enjoyed our walks and got back safely to most delicious and original suppers and cosy beds.

A good time was had by all!

(Sally)

Reports from Judy, Natan, Sally and Rupert

Statistics from Rupert

Photographs from Sally and Rupert, Jenny and Nigel, Janet