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Cathedral Peak NP, South Africa – Mini-METHS – 11th to 14th November 2017

(Drakensberg meet)

 

Participants:  Martin and Miriam Horrocks, George and Val Wallace, Yvonne and Titch Robb, Peter and Antonia Tolhurst, Richard and Pauline, Dave Leishman, Lloyd and Janet Woods, Jürg Ohninger and Alice, Esther Ratsma and Aagjie.

Amazingly, 17 people pitched up for the Drakensberg MINI-METHS at Didima Resort in the Cathedral Peak area of Kwazulu Natal.

The final section of the drive there was ‘Back to Africa’ for many of us, along a twisting mountain road through sparse villages with cattle and goats wandering the roadside verges.  The scenery became quite spectacular as the Cathedral Peak ridge came into view with ‘The Horns’, ‘The Bell’ and our target peak lined up on the horizon.

Mike and Verena had kindly recced the area for us but were unable to attend due to Verena’s fall and recovery needs, so arrangements were very much on the hoof.  Didima Resort was an unknown quantity to all of us but proved to be an excellent place to stay, with spacious accommodation and layout which had been cleverly designed to blend in and give magnificent views of the mountain peaks.  Fortunately, George and Val had arrived a day earlier and had sussed out Trime Hill as a suitable hike to get the show on the road.  After an early buffet breakfast we mustered at 8.30 a.m. to trail in George’s wake up the steep slopes starting just behind the reception area.  Altitude affected many of us, coming abruptly from sea level living, especially when George chose to ignore the zig-zag, easy-peasy option, in favour of the direct mountain goat approach.  With the sun blazing down ‘Try-me’ hill proved to be a good first day test.   As we got higher the path contoured and we were able to move beyond just gasping for breath to appreciating the beautiful surroundings, Natal sugar bushes and the wonderful spring flowers of the Afro-Alpine moorland flora.  After reaching the summit Esther was not content to call this a day’s walk and urged an extension (comme d'habitude .. ed.) into the unknown which Yvonne and Dave Leishman jauntily subscribed to.  Both looked suitably shattered (serves 'em right! ..ed) when they pitched up in the late afternoon.  Finding the campsite unexpectedly closed David reverted with consummate ease to fugitive mode.

The next day we had a glorious walk into the Rainbow Gorge, following the Endumeni River, again starting straight from Didima.  Once more the African sun was exuberantly roastiferous but we soon found shade in the most enchanting riverine forest.  We started in a wide valley that progressively closed in to form a very narrow gorge.  Many of the trees were huge yellow-woods dripping with lichens and dangling lianas.  Tree ferns lined the gullies and Streptocarpus hanging from damp rocks reminded us of similar locations on Zomba and Mulanje.  The Blue Hyacinth, Scilla natalensis was stunning, leaning out into the gorge, reminiscent of the Mulanje version we used to see on the Chapaluka path.  Jürg and his daughter Alice had joined us, at a few days' notice, and were excellent company.  Alice was wonderful at helping those in need (e.g. Miriam) along slippery boulders of tricky river sections.  Our clambering culminated at a huge chockstone wedged in the gorge not much above head height.  With clouds now overhead we weren't treated to the rainbow effect on the showers drizzling from above, and we did feel a little nervous at the thought of a flash flood catching us in such a spot.  On the way back we couldn't resist dipping into a crystal-clear pool beneath two small waterfalls.  It was a wrist-aching experience, reminding us very much of those bracing Lichenya dips.

That night both sheet- and fork-lightning lit up the heavens with great rumbles reverberating around the peaks, quite a show, but a bit scary for the morrow.  It rained quite a lot overnight but fortunately gave up by dawn.  We had saved Cathedral Peak for the last day to give us more acclimatisation time and we knew it was going to be tough.  The advance party set off at 5.00 a.m. and those having lesser ambitions at 5.30, with breakfast boxes being provided the night before by Didima.  We parked at the hikers' car park, hit the track for a bit, then found the sign directing us across the Tugela River.  The trail was very clear and headed up along the valley slopes onto a fairly steep well-worn ridge path leading up to Orange Kloof.  Peter and Titch opted for a leisurely breakfast and descent when half way up and our trio, Richard, Pauline and I, battled on, meeting George on his way down from the high ridge, content with his effort for the day.  At the top of the kloof we found a lovely contouring path winding its way along the ridge with spring flowers all around in a glorious display.  The tinkling of cowbells reached up to us from the valley far below.  We had seen eland on the way up and now 3 huge Cape vultures circled above us.  As we neared Cathedral Peak itself I cramped a muscle and opted for a slow botanical descent myself.  The advance party were now at the base of the cliffs below the peak searching in vain for a climbable gully route to the top.  It's difficult, and potentially dangerous.  You really need a guide and maybe ropes to do this last bit with the downside being that your well acclimatised guide will be moving much faster than you might like to.  The day had warmed up considerably and storm clouds swept over.  Bolts of lightning struck the peaks and bellowing thunder despatched warnings.  It was good to see everybody safely making it down, weary, but well satisfied at having been, as Miriam put it, at the ‘Doors of the Cathedral’.

The next day as we left Cathedral Peak the heavens really opened up, raining torrents.  The gods had been kind to us giving us three excellent hiking days.  Do we have some METHS angels up there looking out for us?  I think so.  In summary, this was a hugely enjoyable METHS gathering.  I’m encouraged to suggest another South African Mini-METHS at a similar time in November next year, probably in the Cederbergs, details later.

Martin Horrocks                                            

 

Photos not (yet) available


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