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ANNUAL REUNION - Cinque Terre, Italy. September 6-10, 2006

Participants: Tony & Gillian Adams, Stewart Halliday, Stuart, Rhoda & Christopher Leslie, Mike & Bridie Macklin, Daphne Martin, Ian Mason, Dave McMullan, Mike & Verena Petzold, Margaret Rohrbasser, Rupert & Sally Roschnik, Eric & Val Scott, Stephen & Pauline Ward

All 20 participants pitched up at the Hotel Souvenir, Monterosso, during the afternoon of Wednesday, September 6th. Some by train, others by car. 3 new faces, friends of the organisers. The first evening we dined in Al Carugio restaurant; later some explored other pubs and watering holes.

Thursday, 7th (6.2 miles, 1300 ft up, 2850 ft down)

ItalyA new record for METHS? Breakfast was organised for 7.50, because we had to take a bus at 8.35 sharp, or lose two hours and get into the heat of the day. Nobody was late! The small bus took us up to the Madonna di Soviore sanctuary at 1550 ft. From here about 2 hours on path no. 1 saw us to the first peak, Monte Malpertuso (2670 ft). The main path skirted the summit, but 16 stalwarts went on animal tracks through the forest to reach the highest point. After summit photos near the top, Rupert found the summit marker. Down through trees and undergrowth to reach a gravel road and then join the others shortly after. Nice shady glade, table and benches and a mountain rescue telephone.

We continued on the fairly level path, until it was time for the (unnamed) second "peak" (2570 ft). After some searching, a mound was found, but no summit marker.

For the third summit, Monte Gaginara (2530 ft) was intended. The hill was duly identified, but trees were scarce near the top, allowing a cover of undergrowth and brambles. After some "bundu bashing", Rupert found himself some 10 feet from the highest point, separated by a thick carpet of brambles. Much muttering when he declared this was good enough, he wasn't going to force his way through (and back again), at least not in shorts. Excuses and the snow cornice analogy were not well accepted by some and resulted in Rupert being awarded the willie-warmer the next day. Nevertheless: 3 peaks were achieved; none of them gave a good view because of the trees.

We then found our way down path no. 7 to San Bernardino hamlet (1000 ft), reached around 1 o'clock, where a welcome trattoria/bar provided the long overdue liquid refreshment. Two participants took the 14.30 bus from here down to Vernazza; the others took the steep, twisty and dusty path that provided some superb views of the village way down below. Later, this descent was considered one of the highlights of the day.

In Vernazza Stewart's Blantyre Hash T-shirt caused him to be approached by Dennis Lewis, a METHS member living in Malawi who was on holiday there for 3 days with his brother. An extraordinary coincidence! Of course he had not read the circular and was quite unaware of the METHS meet. More beer, exchange of news, then we took the boat back to Monterosso. Evening in another restaurant: La Cambusa.

Friday, 8th (7.5 miles, 2200 ft up and down)

This was the day we did the standard "tourist path" from Monterosso to Riomaggiore, with one variant. We started just after 9 a.m., minus Ian Mason who took the train to Corniglia and back, to join us there for lunch. Mike Petzold disappeared early on (see below). The path to Vernazza began quite steeply, up innumerable steps, then traversed along often quite narrow ledges with brambles a few feet below, before descending to Vernazza, at sea level again. After a short pause for intake of beer, coffee or just water, we set off again, up steeply over the inevitable steps, then a lot of up and down and finally a descent to Corniglia, reached around 12.30. Bar Matteo in the main street did good business with foccaccia, panini, beer and lemonade.

From here we took a variant (paths no. 7a and 6d) up for 30-40 minutes then along a beautiful fairly level path through steep vineyards to Volastra (1100 ft). The group got quite separated on this stretch: it was very hot and those in front were trying to reach the next bar quickly, while those behind suffered and took photographs whenever they needed a rest. Finally, the rearguard was able to climb down to Manarola, where they had some delicious freshly squeezed fruit juice and met up with some of the others at the port. A leisurely 25 minutes then took us along the very crowded, paved and fairly flat "Via dell'Amore" to Riomaggiore, where even the stragglers arrived in good time to take the 17.04 train back to Monterosso (others had taken one an hour earlier).

That evening, we had the AGM in the hotel breakfast room, with suitable supplies of red wine, beer and take-away pizzas. A separate report will follow.

Saturday 9th (7.5 miles, 1800 ft up and down)

Only 17 today since the Leslies had to leave that day. Off to catch the 9.34 train back to Riomaggiore, where we took path no. 3 first to Madonna del Montenegro church (1160 ft). Here Ian Mason left us, but went a little further before turning back. This was the day Rupert twice took a wrong turning! The first time was shortly after the church. After carefully explaining to others going on ahead to turn right on path no. 3, he missed the turn and went up alternative path no. 3a, easier but less scenic, with Verena and Sally. All met up at Colle del Telegrafo (1680 ft). From here a beautiful shady path led us through the forest, mainly level, then down to Campiglia (1300 ft). Rupert was in front when we arrived here and was in the bar getting a beer when others walked right past and had to be called back! Unusual for METHS members to miss a pub! In fact, the Bar I Quattro Venti - as it was called – had quite a few snacks to offer and did good business at lunch time. We left at 13.40 for the last stretch to Portovenere. A magnificent path with views down to the sea on the right, a bit exposed in 1-2 places. Rupert and Eric quickly got ahead but missed a turn. By the time they realised they were off route and retraced their steps, all the others had passed.

We finally reached Portovenere and managed to catch the boat at 16.00. Even the slowest walkers got there a good half hour before that to enjoy a beer or a Lemonsoda. Lovely boat ride back along the coast, stopping at all the villages we had been through. Back to Monterosso, for another dinner at Al Carugio.

Sunday 10th

All depart by car or train at various times. Daphne stayed an extra night, due to boat at Genoa not leaving till Monday evening.

Sally completes the picture with her own impressions (with a couple of sentences from Daphne):

We all turned up at Monterosso in the usual miraculous METHS manner. Finding the hotel, I feared Mike Petzold was going to turn heel and run away at the sight of narrow streets and so many people squashed together in one place. He also took fright on the second day: was it having to pay to go on the path and the queue at the toll kiosk? Or was it too much alcohol the night before?

Our hotel was pleasant and the breakfast bread and coffee good. However, the proprietor although friendly and chatty did not appreciate people taking food out of the breakfast room for their picnics!

First day we saved our legs by getting a bus up to a monastery. The walk along the ridge and through the forest was cool and offered some great views. This was the day we did our 3 peaks: these "peaks" were in fact pimples covered in bush and brambles with no views, but we certainly climbed and descended a LOT over the 3 days.

Second day we followed the more touristy route. Third day – steep, steep climbs up and down. Many ladies were suffering from squashed toes and cracking knees as we climbed down the last slope over castle walls – the sea and boats spread out before us. Bridie was reduced to going down the steep steps backwards, a slow process, but, as Tony said, she didn't have a rear mirror!

We really deserved our boat ride back from Portovenere to Monterosso – all along the coast that we had struggled up and down. What a delicious way to see the whole of the steep sides of the Cinque Terre spread out before us, churches dotted on the hillsides and multicoloured villages nestling in the niches at sea level. The trains whizzed along joining it all together and bringing in the likes of us tourists and walkers.

At the end of the 3 days I think we all felt very endeared to the relaxed atmosphere, fun shops, great restaurants and little alleyways, the yellows, oranges and reds of the village walls. We certainly had good grub and delicious gelati along with the usual pints of beer. But the best drinks were the freshly squeezed fruit juices – lemon or orange + grapefruit – in Manarola the second day, with the smiley faces and fun music in the fruit drink bar. The best bit (for some) was – after the sweat and exhaustion of the walks – to swim or take a dip in the clear waters of our very own village.


© WDYFO, 2006