ANNUAL REUNION - Cinque Terre, Italy. September 6-10,
2006
Participants: Tony
& Gillian Adams, Stewart Halliday, Stuart, Rhoda & Christopher Leslie,
Mike & Bridie Macklin, Daphne Martin, Ian Mason, Dave McMullan, Mike &
Verena Petzold, Margaret Rohrbasser, Rupert & Sally Roschnik, Eric &
Val Scott, Stephen & Pauline Ward
All 20 participants
pitched up at the Hotel Souvenir, Monterosso, during the afternoon of
Wednesday, September 6th. Some by train, others by car. 3 new faces, friends of
the organisers. The first evening we dined in Al Carugio restaurant; later some
explored other pubs and watering holes.
Thursday, 7th (6.2
miles, 1300 ft up, 2850 ft down)
A new record for METHS? Breakfast
was organised for 7.50, because we had to take a bus at 8.35 sharp, or lose two
hours and get into the heat of the day. Nobody was late! The small bus took us
up to the Madonna di Soviore sanctuary at 1550 ft. From here about 2 hours on
path no. 1 saw us to the first peak, Monte Malpertuso (2670 ft). The main path
skirted the summit, but 16 stalwarts went on animal tracks through the forest
to reach the highest point. After summit photos near the top, Rupert found the
summit marker. Down through trees and undergrowth to reach a gravel road and
then join the others shortly after. Nice shady glade, table and benches and a
mountain rescue telephone.
We continued on the
fairly level path, until it was time for the (unnamed) second "peak"
(2570 ft). After some searching, a mound was found, but no summit marker.
For the third summit,
Monte Gaginara (2530 ft) was intended. The hill was duly identified, but trees
were scarce near the top, allowing a cover of undergrowth and brambles. After
some "bundu bashing", Rupert found himself some 10 feet from the
highest point, separated by a thick carpet of brambles. Much muttering when he
declared this was good enough, he wasn't going to force his way through (and
back again), at least not in shorts. Excuses and the snow cornice analogy were
not well accepted by some and resulted in Rupert being awarded the
willie-warmer the next day. Nevertheless: 3 peaks were achieved; none of them
gave a good view because of the trees.
We then found our way
down path no. 7 to San Bernardino hamlet (1000 ft), reached around 1 o'clock,
where a welcome trattoria/bar provided the long overdue liquid refreshment. Two
participants took the 14.30 bus from here down to Vernazza; the others took the
steep, twisty and dusty path that provided some superb views of the village way
down below. Later, this descent was considered one of the highlights of the
day.
In Vernazza Stewart's
Blantyre Hash T-shirt caused him to be approached by Dennis Lewis, a METHS
member living in Malawi who was on holiday there for 3 days with his brother.
An extraordinary coincidence! Of course he had not read the circular and was
quite unaware of the METHS meet. More beer, exchange of news, then we took the
boat back to Monterosso. Evening in another restaurant: La Cambusa.
Friday, 8th (7.5
miles, 2200 ft up and down)
This was the day we
did the standard "tourist path" from Monterosso to Riomaggiore, with
one variant. We started just after 9 a.m., minus Ian Mason who took the train
to Corniglia and back, to join us there for lunch. Mike Petzold disappeared
early on (see below). The path to Vernazza began quite steeply, up innumerable
steps, then traversed along often quite narrow ledges with brambles a few feet
below, before descending to Vernazza, at sea level again. After a short pause
for intake of beer, coffee or just water, we set off again, up steeply over the
inevitable steps, then a lot of up and down and finally a descent to Corniglia,
reached around 12.30. Bar Matteo in the main street did good business with
foccaccia, panini, beer and lemonade.
From here we took a
variant (paths no. 7a and 6d) up for 30-40 minutes then along a beautiful
fairly level path through steep vineyards to Volastra (1100 ft). The group got
quite separated on this stretch: it was very hot and those in front were trying
to reach the next bar quickly, while those behind suffered and took photographs
whenever they needed a rest. Finally, the rearguard was able to climb down to
Manarola, where they had some delicious freshly squeezed fruit juice and met up
with some of the others at the port. A leisurely 25 minutes then took us along
the very crowded, paved and fairly flat "Via dell'Amore" to
Riomaggiore, where even the stragglers arrived in good time to take the 17.04
train back to Monterosso (others had taken one an hour earlier).
That evening, we had
the AGM in the hotel breakfast room, with suitable supplies of red wine, beer
and take-away pizzas. A separate report will follow.
Saturday 9th (7.5
miles, 1800 ft up and down)
Only 17 today since
the Leslies had to leave that day. Off to catch the 9.34 train back to
Riomaggiore, where we took path no. 3 first to Madonna del Montenegro church
(1160 ft). Here Ian Mason left us, but went a little further before turning
back. This was the day Rupert twice took a wrong turning! The first time was
shortly after the church. After carefully explaining to others going on ahead
to turn right on path no. 3, he missed the turn and went up alternative path
no. 3a, easier but less scenic, with Verena and Sally. All met up at Colle del
Telegrafo (1680 ft). From here a beautiful shady path led us through the
forest, mainly level, then down to Campiglia (1300 ft). Rupert was in front
when we arrived here and was in the bar getting a beer when others walked right
past and had to be called back! Unusual for METHS members to miss a pub! In
fact, the Bar I Quattro Venti - as it was called – had quite a few snacks to
offer and did good business at lunch time. We left at 13.40 for the last
stretch to Portovenere. A magnificent path with views down to the sea on the
right, a bit exposed in 1-2 places. Rupert and Eric quickly got ahead but
missed a turn. By the time they realised they were off route and retraced their
steps, all the others had passed.
We finally reached
Portovenere and managed to catch the boat at 16.00. Even the slowest walkers
got there a good half hour before that to enjoy a beer or a Lemonsoda. Lovely
boat ride back along the coast, stopping at all the villages we had been
through. Back to Monterosso, for another dinner at Al Carugio.
Sunday 10th
All depart by car or
train at various times. Daphne stayed an extra night, due to boat at Genoa not
leaving till Monday evening.
Sally completes the
picture with her own impressions (with a couple of sentences from Daphne):
We all turned up at
Monterosso in the usual miraculous METHS manner. Finding the hotel, I feared
Mike Petzold was going to turn heel and run away at the sight of narrow streets
and so many people squashed together in one place. He also took fright on the
second day: was it having to pay to go on the path and the queue at the toll
kiosk? Or was it too much alcohol the night before?
Our hotel was pleasant
and the breakfast bread and coffee good. However, the proprietor although
friendly and chatty did not appreciate people taking food out of the breakfast
room for their picnics!
First day we saved our
legs by getting a bus up to a monastery. The walk along the ridge and through
the forest was cool and offered some great views. This was the day we did our 3
peaks: these "peaks" were in fact pimples covered in bush and
brambles with no views, but we certainly climbed and descended a LOT over the 3
days.
Second day we followed
the more touristy route. Third day – steep, steep climbs up and down. Many
ladies were suffering from squashed toes and cracking knees as we climbed down
the last slope over castle walls – the sea and boats spread out before us.
Bridie was reduced to going down the steep steps backwards, a slow process,
but, as Tony said, she didn't have a rear mirror!
We really deserved our
boat ride back from Portovenere to Monterosso – all along the coast that we had
struggled up and down. What a delicious way to see the whole of the steep sides
of the Cinque Terre spread out before us, churches dotted on the hillsides and
multicoloured villages nestling in the niches at sea level. The trains whizzed
along joining it all together and bringing in the likes of us tourists and
walkers.
At the end of the 3
days I think we all felt very endeared to the relaxed atmosphere, fun shops,
great restaurants and little alleyways, the yellows, oranges and reds of the
village walls. We certainly had good grub and delicious gelati along with the
usual pints of beer. But the best drinks were the freshly squeezed fruit juices
– lemon or orange + grapefruit – in Manarola the second day, with the smiley
faces and fun music in the fruit drink bar. The best bit (for some) was – after
the sweat and exhaustion of the walks – to swim or take a dip in the clear
waters of our very own village.
©
WDYFO, 2006