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MULANJE EXPATRIATES THREEPEAKS SOCIETY

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20th Blantyre TPW, 20th June 2004

Leading the 3 Peaks walk for a fourth time, albeit co-leading with Chad, leaves one with a slight trepidation – Oh no, that means I have to finish it and can’t drop out half way.

This year’s 3 peaks was the best in the five years I have done the walk, and the fastest. A group of 22 walkers started at two minutes past five, slightly late because Cal MacLennon dashed in on his mountain bike as we were girding our loins. The two ball boys, Yonah and Chisomo disappeared after about 200 metres, and obviously got the gist that it was not a stroll in the park.

This year’s group was entertained by five doctors and one midwife. Natalie, the obstetrician, was with us in case someone was pregnant; unfortunately it was her so we had to have Demelza with us as the midwife. Unfortunately she was pregnant too, so we had to Dr. Peg with us as the GP, in case anyone suffered with common ailments. Then we had Dr. Leo Vigna, the surgeon, in case anyone needed stitches on the trip, Dr. Cal from the Welcome Trust, for those of us who had malarial attacks up the slopes, and last but not least we had Dr. Charles Dzamalala, the pathologist, who at least could tell us the cause of death in case one of us kicked it – it was nearly him.

The fast pace left a few people straggling but by the time the sun’s rays were appearing over Chilamoni we were still all together – just. Cal and Peg were pegging it (excuse pun) and Charles was bringing up the rear, negotiating the bumps with our expectant mums, if you know what I mean.

Michiru was at its most magical – layers of cloud covering the plains and the sun’s rays turning the slopes several shades of daylight. The walk to the top was easy going but the pace had left the Michiru only crowd Natalie, Demelza, Ethel and Charles, together with Helen Grice and Mary (yes the famous Mini bus Mary – a legend on three peaks walks after only one attempt).

Exton, Peter, Cal, Smickey, Ben, Salman, Peg, and Yvonne made the top at 6.47 a.m. closely followed by Helen Warbey, Doug, Leo, Jason, Ryan, Chad (who immediately lit up a cig.), and Charity. The views this year were particularly magnificent with a clear view of Mulanje and its inspiring peaks, and the famous Zomba Plateau with Chiradzulu and Ndirande (looking ominously far away) a feast for the eyes.

No time to waste and at 7.00 we were on the way down, a bit slippery from the horrible Chiperoni rains the day before – thank God we changed the day to Sunday – a brilliant day throughout. 7.45 at breakfast and ten minutes ahead of schedule. Martin was at his most organized – never seen anything like it –ginger biscuits, salty biscuits, Rooibos tea, coffee, normal tea, mints, crisps, bananas, apples, a veritable feast – thanks Martin – he even had toilet paper.

Phil Pile has been walking his dogs, a stroke of luck. Phil was the back-up for later in the day but now we needed his help. Martin wanted to get to the Johnstons House and we were six people down; Mary, Charles, Ethel (complete with national church going dress – she had no time to change in the car park at BSC), Natalie, Demelza and Helen (by now sounding a little miffed). Half way down we had used a mobile to find that Helen had been ahead of the others and was on her way down, we also heard shouting from the top and responded with several direction sounding whistles (well - they work fine with sheepdogs).

We started for the Swiya turn-off and left Phil to wait for the missing six. Helen later appeared in Namiwawa, and the five Servas (a peace organisation that works by hosting travellers) crew followed Helen in choosing a wrong way (is it possible?) and ending up in Chilamoni – Demelza knew she was on the wrong track and the rest had were like an blind antelope – no idea. Phil was left empty-handed or empty bodied.

The Swiya turn off is just past the entrance to Michiru and runs down to a small river. Hopping over the ten stones or so was easy and the walk through the local villages is such a great way to see Blantyre and its people – bricks being made, small kids running freely and without fear (something that used to happen in Europe at one time), and the friendly, smiling and polite people that makes living in Malawi so worthwhile. Onto the main road and over to the railway line that passes through Blantyre. The railway line is great – 400 metres and you know you will come to the dodgiest bridge in Malawi, sleepers with metre gaps and a 30 foot drop below – and maybe a train (no chance) coming. Peter Morley was seen avoiding the bridge saying we must be ‘loco’ (sorry – the puns don’t get better).

Straight onto to the big wall – left at the junction and first right into Maria’s and Frank’s little haven of several hundred acres was just right to get some weary legs rested and a chance for a decent loo. Amazingly Maria and Frank don’t mind smelly socks littering the grass and cut toe nails being thrown at their dogs – and that was just Exton (sorry Exton but your reputation is also growing). Leo seemed to be struggling a little and Charity looked just about done in. Still we all got it together knowing that the tough one, Ndirande, was next. It's not just the rough walking through the bush at the start, nor the long walk on the old road to the main dirt road, nor the steady but hard climb to the gully, it’s the BLOODY walk up to the gully and the GULLY that is the killer.

My groin strain from squash and my rapidly appearing cramp and pulled hamstring were taking their toll and I stopped at the base of the walk up to the gully for a banana (potassium) and salt (sodium) to offset cramp. Meanwhile Peter, Exton, Smickey (wait till I get you home for leaving me (Helen G)) yes that Smickey, Ryan, Jason, Peg and Cal went steadily up the steep slope. Of course I caught them and we fought our way past the rapidly overgrown bushes in the gully itself, past a few tricky bits of rock to find ourselves exactly on time at 11.15 a.m. Last year Mike Winn suffered terrible cramp on Ndirande and he had to drop out. When Exton was prostrate with cramp in all parts of his body I thought he might be the same. However he recovered well and dashed down with Salman and Smickey to the radio mast and lunch – running early at 11.40.

Surprise Surprise – Yvonne (very clever), Helen (blisters), Chad (sore ankle), and Charity (knackered) were at the lunch spot with Mary, and a Servas visitor from Dedza, Zybion Kalanda. Whilst the first Ndirande conquerors enjoyed lunch we wondered where the last Ndirande survivors were. Ten minutes before we were due to set off at 12.20 Doug, Leo, Peter, Jason and Ryan arrived.

When we started again we were down to 8 of the starting line up. Doug, Helen, and Leo called it a day, Charity decided to meet us at Hynde dam, and talked Mary into it (so Mary said) - for those who do not know the legend of Mini bus Mary let me enlighten you. Last year Mary went to Michiru and then being a Good Samaritan, walked a Canadian visitor back down. She then spent the whole day trying to catch us, taking mini-buses here and there, until she finally caught up with the group at Soche school – hence she only did two peaks. This time she had got caught with the Servas squad at the back and managed to get Martin to take her to Ndirande Kamuzu view. Rumour is about that she took one look at the steep descent and hid in the bushes until we were out of view. We did not realise she was not with us until we were near Hynde Dam, when lo and behold Mary appears out of the bushes. Four by Four Mary, as she is now called, joined us for the rest of the trip.

The group had been increasing the pace since they reached the bottom of Ndirande and galloped through Limbe, arriving at Soche school ten minutes early (14.30) and on for a record time (walking that is – I believe that Adrian Cumberland ran it in the 90’s – in 6 hours 35 minutes). Phil Pile has been supporting since Ndirande – thanks a lot Phil, and was there at Soche school – Martin turned up bang on time at 14.40, and we were off for the third peak. Jason has been ill for the previous few days so had done a magnificent job to get so far - he ran in last year over the last few km, so well done on making it as far as Soche school Jason. What a mess Soche is – trees over the paths and bush bashing the order of the day. Eventually we found our way to the top having lost our ten minute start and another twenty minutes on top of that. Fantastic views from Soche although not the 360’s you get on the other two peaks. Mary and Charity dragged themselves to the top and we were on the way down. Martin made a great job of route finding on the descent – much better than the ascent where I started to think that Miriam had joined us (sorry Miriam but your route finding skills are legendary too). Chimwankunda Dam at 16.45. A little break and finally arriving at 17.45 p.m., certainly the fastest time in recent years.

Thanks once more to the back-up team of Martin and Phil. The statistics below show the approximate distances covered and I added km for those who were wandering around Michiru.

Gordon Benbow

No.

Name

Michiru

Summit

Michiru conservation

Johnstones House

Ndirande

Gully

Kamuzu

View

Hynde Dam

Pioneer Drive

Soche

Sec. School

Chimwankunda Dam

Blantyre Sports Club

Distance travelled

Gordon Benbow

42 km

Smickey Chiula

24 km

Helen Grice

18km

Mary Boloweza

32 Km

Exton

Mpande

42 km

Natalie De Naer

18km

Demelza Lewis

18km

Chad Morse

24 km

Ryan Murphy

42 km

Jason Brown

34km

Doug Takano

24 km

Peg Cumberland

42 km

Helen Warby

24 km

Leo Vigna

24 km

Charity Msamba

38 km

Yvonne Robb

42 km

Peter Morley

42 km

Salman Issa

42 km

Charles Dzamalala

18km

Cal MacLennan

42 km

Martin Horrocks

8 km

Werner Modinger

8 km

Zybion Kalande

18 km

Ethel ?

18km