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Switzerland. 3-6 September 2003

Day 1 — Wednesday

The members mostly gathered a few days prior at Mike and Verena's 180-year-old, five-storey traditional Swiss house, a great location itself for local scenic walks in case anyone has boots that won't stop.

More than plumped-up, feasting on Verena's tasty Swiss cuisine, we started with four or five train connections, each closely separated by around three minutes. The rail service, along with everything else in Switzerland, is immaculate, so no problem. I didn't notice any anoraks (train spotters). Maybe they all cover their country during their first day out and then venture abroad. Most are probably waiting for a train somewhere in the UK. It's a good thing someone knew where we were going though, because anyone could easily become disorientated if not used to this seamless journeying.

Once reaching Unterterzen, on the shores of beautiful Walensee (hard cores — skip the rest of this sentence) we rode cable cars up to Maschgenkamm (6,500ft). Fair enough I say. It would hardly be rewarding to climb for hours while grannies pass overhead for a quick cup of tea. Save it for tomorrow where they can't reach!

It was a pleasant 2½-hour hike, amidst the sound of Alpine cowbells, to reach the Spitzmeilenhütte, just enough for the conscience — to guiltlessly accept a lager. Rupert and Sally made their own way from near Geneva, to join us just in time for dinner. Who needs water to re-hydrate? (Not Rupert)

 

 

Day 2 — Thursday

Beautiful scenery! Clear skies all round. 09:30 and we're on the trail to the Spitzmeilen (8,205ft). Rupert, Neil, Christina and Steve made the final 200ft scramble to the summit, a perfect antidote for any later exposure. As usual, reverse scrambling was a little more difficult, but what choice do you have at this late stage?

 

 

Lunch was at the 'crossroads' after descending the ridge beyond Wissmilen, our second peak. Wissmilen is a junction of three ridges and an easy walk to reach. The official plan for the day was to return to the hut after this, which two of the ladies with sense adhered to, but keen to take on Magerrain and make three in a day, the rest of us chose another path.

Magerrain is more or less triangular with vertical faces on two sides. Circumnavigating to the climbable NW side involved descending into a steep-sided valley, which Rupert quickly began. Unhappy with the prospect of sacrificing so much height, the rest of us agreed to contour the scree-slopes. Bad decision! We spent 1½ hours hanging onto the scree slopes performing haggis manoeuvres.

Battle lost, but not the war, we re-united with Rupert who was comfortably waiting for us just below a col. He had already sniffed out the best route up the peak and pointed it out to the rest of us. A ten-strong herd of chamois, pronounced shamwa (wild mountain goats) were also up there. There was reluctance in the group, faced with the tiresome prospect of repeating what we'd just been through to get us home. Once an easier way home had been identified, our tired feet dragged us to the summit with Rupert leading. I started to wonder whether he was raised by these chamois and began looking for any signs of secret communication. None seen, but keep your eyes peeled in future.

Magerrain was my favourite. Standing close to the edge, looking down the 1,000ft vertical drop, was adrenaline on tap. "Come away from there!" Spoken with concern by accomplished rock climbers, convinced me to comply.

The journey back down to the hut, through the Türli (translation = 'little door'), was nothing short of amazing. This is a route well worth repeating. It's reasonably exposed, but safe and the terrain, stunning. The Türli is just what it suggests, a door through the otherwise impassable knife-edge ridge.

 

 

 

Day 3 — Friday

Prior to the steep final descent into Weisstannen, 4,200ft below, Wissgandstöckli wouldn't let most of us pass without climbing it. If you had to judge by value for effort, this is the best. The peak is at 8,163ft and is only about 35 minutes' steep climb, off the track at Fansfurggla.

We were lucky with the weather throughout and from here we could see all the rugged looking ranges in the region, inspiring stories from previous climbs. The horizon was like a saw blade all around us, with grey rock faces, snow-capped peaks and glaciers adding to the rich colour palette.

The final four-hour descent into Weisstannen through farm and woodland was hard on feet, but it made the end that much more rewarding.

The last day was a travel day and by chance it was Alpenabzug, the annual ceremony of herding the cows down from the Alps, in preparation for winter. The herdsmen are traditionally handed a drink by residents en-route and it's a wonder they make it.

Not having attended any METHS meets for a very long time, I don't have much to compare it with, but I rated the meet — Awesome! Steve Rainbow

 

Meet participants

Mike Petzold, Verena Petzold, Rupert Roschnik, Sally Roschnik, Neil Stiles, Sue Stiles, Christina Petzold, Steve Rainbow.

 

Here, in Limerick form, is Sue Stiles’ report

IMPRESSIONS OF SWITZERLAND

Our two thousand ‘n’ three stay at Verena’s
And Mike’s was as pure and as clean as
The lovely Swiss air
In a cable car chair
Rising high in the sky, with the green as …

..Hills far below in the distance
Where cows graze and moo their resistance
To the weight round their neck —
Then they think “What the heck?”
And conform to their leader’s insistance..

.. That the herd must all tinkle in tune
All morning and evening and noon
Till the end of the season
When traditional reason
Sees the senior milkers festooned ..

When they all get to go on Abfahrt
And their humans delight to take part
In a booze-ridden trip
When they get to let rip
With free grog to the end from the start!

In the valleys they continue to moo
And chew all the winter months through
So the milk can still flow
To make chocolate you know
— it’s quite nice, so I’m glad that they do.

Their cheese, milk and butter are great
But it’s chocolate we’ll take in our freight
Not a Swiss garden gnome
Will be coming back home
(Neil’s No.1 thing that he hates).

All other things here are just fine
We’ve had the most marvellous time
With a lovely fondue
(which is cheese melted through
With paprika, garlic and wine ..)

.. In which stabbed bits of bread are immersed
On the end of a fork, unrehearsed.
If a bit does fall in
You’ve committed a sin
Or do penance or something much worse!

Swiss have a few rules, not taught in the schools
(You only discover them later)
They will leave you annoyed
When the thing you’ve enjoyed
Is proved to be wrong by some paper…

.. On which, in small print, it is written
That what you’ve just done is forbidden
By some legal red tape
That won’t let you escape
Till you’ve proved that with guilt you are smitten.

Muesli’s made mainly with oats
And is channelled down many Swiss throats
Enjoyed or resented,
Something else they’ve invented
And it’s not food for horses or goats.

They synchronise buses and trains
Unless Abfahrts are in country lanes
When the driver’s frustration
That he won’t make the station
In time can bring on some migraines.

The Swiss seem to tramp with two poles
I think these must strengthen their soles
As I’ve not heard a grumble
Nor seen anyone stumble
On Wanderwegs and grassy knolls —

And it’s quite hard to lose your direction
When tramping due to pole-like erections
Which inform (or depress)
That you’re not quite there yet
And the peaks are split up in neat sections ..

Informatively, precisely displayed
Are facts about ascents you’ve just made
What you can see all around
All the ups and the downs
Are exquisitely, Swissly portrayed.

Swiss chalets are enormously large
With or without adjoining garage
They contain several landings
You must stoop when you’re standing
Or else hit a head-high barrage..

..Of beams hanging low from the ceiling
That sent Neil’s grey matter reeling
As from ceiling to floor
It’s six feet and no more.
(But the rest of us find this appealing)

The windows are shrouded with lace
And there’s blossom all over the place
Some walls are adorned
With ibex’s horn
On their skull (what was done with their face?)

Some flora and fauna that’s Swiss
Are Gentian, Chamois and Ibex
(One drank from a fountain
Near Matterhorn mountain
You have to be quick else you miss).

On a train that ascends you can sneak
To get up a quite climbable peak
Then a restaurant on top
Sells food cold or hot
But at least with dried sweat you won’t reek!

Things Swiss cost a fair bit of dosh
And are very well made and quite posh
Clocks, watches and bells
And things that sell well
Also the delicious Swiss nosh.

All good things must come to an end
But live on in the hearts of our friends
Whom we’ve met on this trip.
We’ve enjoyed every bit
And our thanks and best wishes we send.

Sue Stiles

Venue: Spitzmeilen Hut (SMC), St Galler Oberland, Eastern Switzerland.

Book public transport direct to Maschgenkamm (via Unterterzen on the Walensee) — ask for routing and directions at any station in CH, including airport stations — for those who are unfamiliar with CH, the entire public transport system, ie rail, ship, bus, cable car, has a single integrated timetable — if you insist on driving (Swiss roads are crowded), there is plenty of parking at Unterterzen station. From Maschgenkamm, the hut is two hours' easy walk.

Programme: Meet at the hut 6pm, Wed 3rd September, 2003. Three nights at Spitzmeilen Huette, with several small peaks in the area, including Weissmies (easy), Magerein (moderate) and Spitzmeilen (hard scramble). Dinner, breakfast, beer & wine available at hut but bring packed lunches. Blankets provided — sleeping bags not needed; Members are welcome to spend a night or two chez Petzolds in the OberToggenburg either side of this meet. Map 1:50.000 — St. Galler Oberland (the area is also covered by two excellent 1:25,000 maps).

Leader: Mike Petzold, PO Box 3299, Richmond, Nelson, New Zealand. Email: petzold@ihug.co.nz

Click here for a report of the last meet in Switzerland.

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