Fort William, Scotland. 19-22 July 2000
The Convenor of
Scottish Meets, a.k.a. Polevault, had laid on a luxury self-catering house on
the north side of Ben Nevis. This was a beautiful two-storey log cabin-style
villa, splendidly equipped and with magnificent views of the Ben and Carn Mor
Dearg arête.
He also laid on a week
of glorious weather in an area renowned for rain and mist. The summit of Ben
Nevis is seldom cloud free, yet we saw it constantly for seven days.
The meet was well
attended, with 11 staying in the house and Mad Mike and "Poet
Laureate" in a very nice B&B nearby.
Day 1: Most of the group arrived over the
weekend to take advantage of a few extra days in the area. On Sunday 17, all
except the Masons and Petzolds (who arrived later) walked up the spectacular
route on the south side of Glencoe, known as 'The Lost Valley', towards Bidean
nam Bian. This had a particular poignancy for Polevault, as it was here that he
earned his club name in 1994. Axeman had just said
'That's enough exposure for me today', when Eric came across (not literally!)
two nubile young German ladies sunbathing naked by a stream. In his excitement,
he tripped and pole-vaulted over a stone wall. But I digress.
Most of the party
enjoyed a pleasant low level walk up the valley. Harpic and Socks went on to
climb Stob Coire nan Lochan (1,115m), Bidean nam Bian (1,150m) and Stob Coire
nam Beath (1,107m). The views were stunning — an almost Himalayan panorama with
high mountains as far as the eye could see, many miles in perfect visibility.
We began our descent, planned by Socks as the least worst gradient on a very
steep ridge, when Harpic spotted the pub 3,000 feet below. He took off straight
down what seemed like almost vertical grass slopes, leaving Socks muttering,
cursing and bum-sliding down after him. When we finally reached the road, Socks
bush-bashed a straight route to the Clachaig Inn, while Harpic took a ¾-mile
detour on the tarmac. Socks had downed his second pint by the time Harpic
arrived, but he soon caught up. Needless to say, the others, who had promised
to pick us up at the Inn, were long gone. However, we virtually hijacked a car
going the right way and coerced the driver to take us the three miles back to
our car.
Day 2: A day for separate ways. Some
explored Fort William and its environs. Polevault and AMLH did Ben Nevis
(4,406ft) by the standard route, starting at the Youth Hostel in Glen Nevis.
Polevault and AMLH
climbed the Ben by the so called tourist route. This was the original path up
the Ben, which was used, in Victorian times to supply the old observatory.
These days it is used by all and sundry to climb the Ben.
This was a very hot
day, with unusually cloudless skies and a blazing sun. Both of us being in the
category of 'old crumblies' ascended at a gentle pace. The views were stunning
but it was more interesting to observe the other climbers, like an Austrian in
full lederhosen in 34°C temperatures standing with his arms outspread
shouting 'Wunderbar', this was assumed to be at the views but it was more
likely to be draft up his trouser leg cooling his tackle. We reached the summit
without much trouble apart from a Glasgow Keely who considered AMLH a hero. On
the ascent and the descent AMLH kept muttering about young nubiles, and one
must have eventually got to close to him 50 yards from the car when he took a
funny turn. A full recovery was made when we staggered into the nearest pub for
a pint.
Gluttons for
punishment, Harpic and Socks set off for Ben Nevis via Carn Mor Dearg arête —
one of Scotland's classic routes. This involved 2½-hours' slog over Carn Beag
Dearg (1,010m), Carn Dearg Meadhonach (1,179m) to Carn Mor Dearg (1,220m) This
was followed by the best part of the trip — an hour on the prickly, knife-edge
ridge of the arête. Fine rock scrambling over pinnacles, with moderate exposure
for most of the way. Another 35 minutes of steep ascent through a boulder field
brought us to the summit — something of an anti-climax in a way, as we were
then among the hordes who had ascended by the 'tourist route'. However, the
views were spectacular in clear warm weather.
We debated using a
very steep route off into Coire Leis, which has abseiling poles fixed at
intervals, but decided reluctantly not to risk it. We joined the 'tourists' to
descend the horrible scree slope which is what remains of the Land Rover track
built on the mountain in the 1950s. We must have just missed AMLH and
Polevault, as we caught up with them outside a pub near the hostel at the bottom
of the route.
Day 3: This was Wednesday, the traditional
"pitch up day" for Meths meets. Most of us took a day off and went
our various ways.
Day 4: This was the day of the walk on the
wild side. Polevault persuaded AMLH, Axeman, Harpic, Mad Mike and Mrs Polevault
to take the local train to Corrour station at the head of Loch Ossian in the
middle of Rannoch Moor for a walk back to Fort William. This was supposed to be
a 10-mile walk but as it turned out it was nearer 15 miles.
Day 5: Apart from Mad Mike and Socks the
rest decided to have a day off after the Wednesday and went for a short walk up
the Nevis Gorge to the falls of Steall.
Mad Mike and Socks set
off to do a variation of the Ring of Steall — another Scottish classic. After
crossing the infamous three-wire bridge and not finding the overgrown start of
the path, we bundu-bashed our way to the coll and on to the north ridge of
Sgurr a' Mhaim (1,099m). In true Meths tradition, why use the right route when
you can make it harder? We crossed the path which comes up the ridge we should
have been on and joined it to the summit. Then a descent and re-ascent in
swirling mist on the Devil's Ridge took us on to Sgorr an Iubhair (Pubehair?),
then west along another ridge to the head of a pretty valley followed by the
long descent north to the road and the seemingly endless trek back to the car.
Day 6: The 'official' three peaks a day
late, although some of us had done 10 already.
All together at last, the walking
members of the group set off to the head of Glen Nevis, starting near the point
where Mad Mike and Socks had finished the previous day. This time, the approach
was on a path into forest, followed by a very steep bash through pine woods and
on up steep heather slopes to the start of the summit ridge of Mullach nan
Coirean. The weather was hot and, as usual, we joined the correct route after
nearly 3,000ft of bush bashing. 'This is what you call an easy day, Polevault?'
Socks was heard to mutter.
Once on route, a fine
ridge walk followed; over Mullach nan Coirean (939m), an unnamed S.E. top —
should we call this 'Polevault's Peak'? Another 2km of pleasant ridge walking
took us to Stob Ban (999m), followed by the descent down the same valley as Mad
and Socks had used the day before.
Like all good things,
our meet had to end on the Saturday. We said our farewells, many of us able to
look forward to meeting again five weeks later for Meths 2000 in Italy. Everyone had a great week; the company was good,
the food was good, the grog was good, the weather was good, the accommodation
was good — what a superb meet.
Once again, top score
to Polevault for perfect organisation.
Participants: Mike "Harpic" Mossford,
Gladys Harpic, her son Jonathan, Brian "AMLH" Sayers, Jane Sayers,
His Excellency the Life President Ian "Axeman" Mason, Sadie Mason,
Eric "Polevault" Scott, Valerie Polevault, Stuart "Socks"
Leslie, Rhoda Socks, "Mad" Mike Petzold and Maisie "Poet
Laureate" Petzold
Prick of the meet: Not officially awarded on a Mini
Meths, but would have gone to Socks for breaking his egg into a bottomless dish
and having to slurp it off the kitchen worktop.
Quote of the week: Won by Poet Laureate for the
following:
Valerie: 'Maisie, are
you half Scots?'
Maisie: 'No dear, my tongue got stuck to my false teeth.'
©
WDYFO, 2000